Frequently Asked Questions

A non-thermal fan clutch is nothing more than a thermal fan clutch always partly engaged. It provides adequate cooling when needed, however, it does not save you money by disengaging (operating at a lower RPM) when additional cooling is not needed.

These are the most common symptoms of a failed fan clutch:

• Engine overheating – with engine hot and ignition off, spin fan 1-11/2 revolutions indicates a worn clutch.
• Excessive Fan Clutch play – push the tip of the fan blade in and out. Any visible looseness in the clutch shaft means the bearing is worn.
• Greasy build up – Oily streaks radiating outward from the hub shaft or fluid leaking at centre of thermostat spring.
• Bad bearing - Seized, turns rough or has excessive play (more than 1/4" at fan tip).
• Freezing up – If the fan blade cannot be rotated by hand, or if hand rotation causes a harsh rumbling, the fan clutch bearing has failed.
• Shaft vibration – The fan clutch is mounted on the water pump between the water pump shaft and the fan. Any vibration can mean a worn bearing in the water pump o fan clutch. Since the fan clutch and water pump have about the same life span, it makes sense to replace both at the same time.
• Worn thermal spring - Spring is loose.

Some fan clutches will show no visible indication of a problem yet may still be faulty. The following may also indicate a faulty fan clutch:

• Fan spins excessively - Three or more times when hot engine is shut off.
• Poor air conditioning - At low speedor excessive high side pressures.
• Doesn't engage - Fan speed does not increase or "lock up" when the engine is hot.
• Does not disengage - Fan clutch won't slow down when the engine is cold.

Note; The fan clutch should be checked for possible replacement when a replacement water pump is being installed.

A non-thermal fan clutch is nothing more than a thermal fan clutch always partly engaged. It provides adequate cooling when needed, however, it does not save you money by disengaging (operating at a lower RPM) when additional cooling is not needed.

These are the most common symptoms of a failed fan clutch:

• Engine overheating – with engine hot and ignition off, spin fan 1-11/2 revolutions indicates a worn clutch.
• Excessive Fan Clutch play – push the tip of the fan blade in and out. Any visible looseness in the clutch shaft means the bearing is worn.
• Greasy build up – Oily streaks radiating outward from the hub shaft or fluid leaking at centre of thermostat spring.
• Bad bearing - Seized, turns rough or has excessive play (more than 1/4" at fan tip).
• Freezing up – If the fan blade cannot be rotated by hand, or if hand rotation causes a harsh rumbling, the fan clutch bearing has failed.
• Shaft vibration – The fan clutch is mounted on the water pump between the water pump shaft and the fan. Any vibration can mean a worn bearing in the water pump o fan clutch. Since the fan clutch and water pump have about the same life span, it makes sense to replace both at the same time.
• Worn thermal spring - Spring is loose.

Some fan clutches will show no visible indication of a problem yet may still be faulty. The following may also indicate a faulty fan clutch:

• Fan spins excessively - Three or more times when hot engine is shut off.
• Poor air conditioning - At low speedor excessive high side pressures.
• Doesn't engage - Fan speed does not increase or "lock up" when the engine is hot.
• Does not disengage - Fan clutch won't slow down when the engine is cold.

Note; The fan clutch should be checked for possible replacement when a replacement water pump is being installed.

A non-thermal fan clutch is nothing more than a thermal fan clutch always partly engaged. It provides adequate cooling when needed, however, it does not save you money by disengaging (operating at a lower RPM) when additional cooling is not needed.

These are the most common symptoms of a failed fan clutch:

• Engine overheating – with engine hot and ignition off, spin fan 1-11/2 revolutions indicates a worn clutch.
• Excessive Fan Clutch play – push the tip of the fan blade in and out. Any visible looseness in the clutch shaft means the bearing is worn.
• Greasy build up – Oily streaks radiating outward from the hub shaft or fluid leaking at centre of thermostat spring.
• Bad bearing - Seized, turns rough or has excessive play (more than 1/4" at fan tip).
• Freezing up – If the fan blade cannot be rotated by hand, or if hand rotation causes a harsh rumbling, the fan clutch bearing has failed.
• Shaft vibration – The fan clutch is mounted on the water pump between the water pump shaft and the fan. Any vibration can mean a worn bearing in the water pump o fan clutch. Since the fan clutch and water pump have about the same life span, it makes sense to replace both at the same time.
• Worn thermal spring - Spring is loose.

Some fan clutches will show no visible indication of a problem yet may still be faulty. The following may also indicate a faulty fan clutch:

• Fan spins excessively - Three or more times when hot engine is shut off.
• Poor air conditioning - At low speedor excessive high side pressures.
• Doesn't engage - Fan speed does not increase or "lock up" when the engine is hot.
• Does not disengage - Fan clutch won't slow down when the engine is cold.

Note; The fan clutch should be checked for possible replacement when a replacement water pump is being installed.

A non-thermal fan clutch is nothing more than a thermal fan clutch always partly engaged. It provides adequate cooling when needed, however, it does not save you money by disengaging (operating at a lower RPM) when additional cooling is not needed.